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  • Polaris Overland.

Namibia Day 7 - Ugab River Camp to Moweni Mountain Camp

After a great night in Ugab with a nice breeze and a great bbq and fire.

Morning started with another bush shower which we are getting used to enjoying, a great view while you shower but just as long as you don't get any unwelcome visitors.

We left Ugab and instantly hit confusion with the GPS telling us one route but the description different. As we had trusted the GPS up to this point we decided to follow the GPS. This was not the correct route where instead of crossing the dried river bed we were sent upstream for 10km where full speed, maximum revs and hell for leather was the only way to avoid getting bogged in the deep sand. Lots of different feelings excitement, exhilarating, scared of getting stuck as no one would find us especially as we were not on the regular route and also no mobile phone signal so we knew if we did get stuck we would be stuck for a while.

However we made it to the exit out of the river bed and straight away we had to stop as the road seemed to disappear in sharp tyre slicing rocks. This meant a technical and difficult exit from the sandy river bed through a rocky pass full of sharp stones, steep ascents, very slow and crawling over large rocks and boulders with Angela often walking in front initially to act as a guide through the rocks.

Later in the day met a South African couple who had been touring all over Namibia wild camping where ever they liked. We stopped and chatted with them for a while. Discussing how we had made an error leaving Ugab Camp they informed us we had came out over the pass which was called "Divorce Pass" on account that by the time you come out of it you'll likely be heading for a divorce. We were still talking so it seemed we got off lightly this time.

We met mountain zebra on way through Divorce Pass when you wouldn't have thought anything could survive in that barren and rocky environment.

The terrain continually changes from rocky with scrubs to sandy valleys where we saw giraffe and ostrich (amazing). In total we saw 6 giraffe including baby, gorgeous, 3 ostrich and 2 gemsbok.

The South African couple we met had been wild camping for 3 weeks travelling from north to south, zig zagging west to east. They discussed routes, terrain, gave us some information about the area and showed us on a more detailed map so we could follow our route error from earlier and how to rejoin the correct route for the rest of the day.

We finally came out and rejoined the correct route at Burnt Mountain and Organ Pipes. At sunset Burnt Mountain is meant to resemble burning coals due to the geology catching the sunlight but at 2pm it was just a black volcanic pile and not very picturesque.

The Organ pipes was vertical stones which resembled organ pipes in a church. We stopped to have a walk around and stretch our legs before continuing on our way to Twyfelfontein.

At Twyfelfontein we stopped to see the rock engravings which at over 3000 years old. Here also are the remains of the original farm from 1947 where the first white farmer brought his family.

It is an interesting stop (£7.00 for both including over personal guide) and some of the rock engravings are great to see and hear the history..

From Twyfelfontein we went straight to Mowani Mountain camp where as per the guidebook we expected very very basic services but were pleasantly surprised as the camp had had some work completed since the guidebook was last updated.

Therefore our personal facilities included hot running water via a donkey boiler, great power shower, flushing toilet, bathroom sink, shaded kitchen area with double sinks and worktops and shelves for storing. Luxury by far.

Special note if you turn up in daylight be prepared for small bees that annoy the hell out of you. Buzzing around your head however they don’t bite / sting but do try get into all your nose, eyes, ears basically everywhere. We resorted to a scarf over your head and face to stop them annoying you. It might not have looked great but it did the job. In the evening we are happy to say they disappeared which was great as the sunset views were absolutely stunning.

Just before sunset a guy came and lit the donkey boiler to heat the water and he returned again at 6am to do the same again so we had hot water for the morning too.

Quite possibly one of the nicest camps ever and the facilities were better than we have seen in some houses.

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